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Becoming
a better cyclist
Equipment you
may consider to enhance your performance:
Computer
with cadence, clip in shoes, aerobars, indoor bike trainer
and a heart rate monitor.
Our
sponsors can assist you with the proper gear and equipment
with a GNOTRI members discount:
Chain
Ring, Gears and More...
Basic
understanding and know how can make your bike training safe,
easy and efficient. One of the first things you will need
to understand
is how to
utilize gear ratio vs chain ring. On most tri/road bikes
there are 2 chain rings the larger one is the one most people
use rarely ever using the
small ring. Well if you been out riding on a windy day or
on a hill course, you'll know that just using the large
chain ring will make your ride tough and miserable.
The
large chain ring is used as the standard ring on rides
in general as
the pace gets faster and on relatively flatter
courses. The smaller chain ring is used as an alternate
as the
elements and terrain gets tougher. So
if you are on a hilly course and the elevation
becomes a factor or
you are faced with climbs such as bridge
this is when you should shift into the smaller
chain ring then shift through
your gears to find the proper ratio to make
your climb comfortable, not expending energy
or exerting muscles.
The smaller chain ring can also make a difference
when faced with windy conditions, especially
on a long distance ride, shifting to the
smaller chain ring while riding into a steady
head wind will allow you to spin at a steady
cadence with less resistance and effort allowing
you to conserve energy, extending overall
performance.
Another helpful tip in understanding gear use is when
face with yielding or stopping, especially when group riding,
having other athletes are depending your position in the
group. When coming to a intersection needing to yield or
stop you should
start
shifting into
easier
gears
ahead
of time ableing you to slow and prepare to stop if needed,
but excellerate with ease if the group does not stop but
yields then takes off continuing the pace. If you are
coming to a stop you should have down shifted into your
easy
gears as you
unclip
one foot ahead of the stop ready to dismount or just have
the foot touch
the
ground. Then being in an easy gear you will be able to
take off from the stop without a struggle,
keeping your balance and ability to get back to pace safely.
Cadence
is your pedal speed typically measured in revolutions per
minute, and factors into your chain ring vs gear ratio performance.
Understanding the importance of pedal cadence is the key
to the most efficient
use of
your
endurance
and
power
on the bike. Knowing at all times the gear
you are riding, your heart rate, and your pedal cadence is
a much better
indicator of how well your "motor" is
performing than your speed down the road. Speed
is too dependent
on variables you cannot control like temperature,
humidity, wind, road grade, road surface, other
riders, etc. If
you gauge your performance on the bike by the
average speed of your ride, you will not have
an accurate picture
of your cycling fitness.
Cadence is part
of the equation for determining your power output. Here
is a simple physics lesson.
Work = Total
Force x Distance
Power = Work/Time
The more work
you do in a shorter period of time implies you generate
more power. In a given gear, for every pedal revolution,
you move your weight and the weight of the bike a given
distance. In addition you also have to overcome the drag
forces caused by the friction of the tires on the road
surface (relatively small) and the drag forces generated
by your motion through the air (relatively large). Cadence
introduces the time element to calculate your power output.
For a constant gear, the faster your cadence, the more
work you are generating in a given unit of time and hence
the higher your power output.
Okay, so what
kind of pedal cadence makes for the most efficient power
output for cycling? In general, an average pedal cadence
of 90 rpm is what most riders should strive for. This
is not a number that is random but has been used for
many years in the pro cycling ranks. Nearly every book
written on bike racing by riders and coaches like Greg
Lemond, Eddie B., Davis Phinney, Bernard Hinault, Edmund
Burke, and Chris Carmicheal use 90-95 rpm as a good training
and racing cadence. Proper choice of gear and this type
of cadence will lead to the most efficient and productive
training/racing results for the rider (triathletes should
note that maintaining your cadence in this range will
keep your legs feeling better for the run that typically
follows the cycling portion of your races).
In
most situations, 90-100 rpm on flat to rolling terrain is
an excellent
cadence to use for training, fitness riding,
touring, and racing. When climbing hills, your cadence will
probably
drop down to 70-85 rpm depending upon the steepness
or grade of the hill (however note that Lance Armstrong
has been astounding the pro cycling ranks by
pedaling up the mountain stages of the Tour De France at
90-95
rpm).
Many riders
try to push too large a gear at too low of a cadence.
I have seen this a lot on our local training rides. Riders
who get dropped on hills or "blow up" three-quarters
of the way on a long ride are probably riding in too
big of a gear and pedaling too low of an average cadence.
Disciplining yourself to maintain an average cadence
of 90 rpm for most of your riding will give you the best
results. As you become stronger and fitter, strive to "spin" the
larger gears at +90 rpm. On recovery rides, "spin" the
lower gears at 95-105 rpm, teaching your muscles leg
speed.
Take
the time to install a computer with cadence
and use it to develop fast and smooth leg speed.
Many
pros use the time between November and January
(winter off season training) to ride small gears or fixed
gear bikes at a higher 90-110 rpm
average cadence for long base miles to develop
leg speed. If it works for the pros, it should work for you.
Aerobars
are a get tool used in time trial and triathlon riding
because the aero position you will be more efficient,
with less resistance while riding. But, knowing how
to get in and out of the bars are a little tricky and
scary
when using them for the first time. The key to this
is keeping your balance and this is done by shifting
your
center balance, keeping your weight on your seat and
NOT on your arms when getting in and out of the aerobars.
So when I am getting into my aerobars, I will focus
my weight/center of gravity on my seat, then balance
myself with one hand holding my handle bars as I lower
the other arm into the aero position, still keeping
my weight shifted on the seat, I then move my other
arm
into the aero position. Coming out of the aero position,
I focus on shifting my weight back to the seat allowing
me to
only have to balance myself while moving one hand to
the
handle bars as I sitting up right then move the other
hand to the handle bars.
NOTE: You should not use the aerobars
position when in tight group rides or on hazardous
road/weather conditions.
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